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Emsriver cycleway. and the Dutch North Sea coast

Monday June 19th, 2017 .......................................Hövelhof -Warendorf via river Emssource
Km 95.42
Time 5:35
Height 91 m ...........................................................Hövelhof, Rietberg, Rheda - Wiedenbrück, Warendorf

Yesterday we went by car from Switzerland to Hövelhof (Paderborn, Germany). In Hövelhof begins the river Ems which finds its way over 375 kilometers at Emden into the North Sea.
The car can be left on the campsite Apelhof for 1 euro per day. Here it is well guarded (with fall tree).

We go to the Ems' sources, (majority) because there is no real source, it is a wetland (Moosheide) with different ponds, which forms the Ems.
The source region is described in the information center and is the starting point of the Emsradweg (Emscycleway).
On the way back we pass a chapel. It was once one kilometer east, but had to give way for an exercise place to the army and was blown up, now it is been rebuilt to their original way on this place.

When we are back in Hövelhof, it is already 11:00 h, time for a good breakfast. Here in Germany almost every baker offers a variety of breakfasts from English to French to local.
The path is wonderful, we cycle through very much forest, which is very pleasant at temperatures over 30°.
The roads are well paved and through the forest sometimes nature trails, but the cycle paths are for the most part separated
from the motorized traffic.

Tuesday 20.06.2017 ..............................................................Warendorf - Salzbergen
Km 83.09
Time 4:55
Height 151 m .......................................................Warendorf, Telgte, Greven, Emsdetten, Salzbergen

Surprisingly, our tents are dry both inside and outside.
We will have breakfast after 15 kilometers in Telgte, a famous place of pilgrimage in the Münsterland. The city has donated an electric column so that you can recharge your electric bike. We charge our batteries only in the evening, which is enough; because the terrain is flat as a pancake therefore we need much less energy than in Switzerland.
The pilgrimage chapel with the 600 year old Pietà is the focal point in Telgte.

Today we cycle long distances through the forest, sometimes along the Ems sometimes we cross them.
In Greven we overlook a directional display and go via Reckenfeld to Emsdetten. It bothers me a bit that only one arrow indicates the direction but there are still 4 other cycle paths. A small sign next to the arrow would be enough to show the driver if she/he is on the right track, in our case the Emsradweg sign.

In the larger towns we cycle into the center and take a breather. This gives us the opportunity to visit the city and it will remain in a better memory.
After Rheine I switch on my GPS, so we are going straight to the campground in Salzbergen.
Too bad that so many tent sites have no WiFi or that the reception is so bad that you can not send mail with an attachment.

Wednesday 21.06.2017 ...........................................................Salzbergen - Haren
Km 86.90
Time 5: 08
Height 119 m .....................................................................Salzbergen, Lingen, Meppen, Haren

We find quickly the Emsradweg and will follow the signposted cycle path.
We are pleasantly surprised through how many forests the road winds.
Breakfast is after 25 kilometers in Lingen. Afterwards town visit and back on the cycle track to Geeste.
Shortly after Lingen we get into conversation with cyclists. It turns out that the two come from our neighboring town of Wohlen, 5 km from Bremgarten. What a coincidence! They join an organized trip which takes their luggage to the next hotel.

At Geeste we pass a huge reservoir lake. From the beginning to the end of the lake it is 5 kilometers. The surrounding area looks like a dune landscape with pine trees and a few deciduous trees.
In Meppen, Rika (my sister) calls me back, because I have passed a fish shop. What they have to offer is fantastic.
We take our time and start with pickled herring as starter.
Just before Haren I switch on my GPS again so we can go straight to the campsite. First, pitch our tent and take a shower.
We can still go to the city in the evening.

Thursday 22.06. 2017 ..................................................................Haren - Leer
Km 77.12
Time 4: 09
Height 150 m .................................................Haren, Lathen, Papenburg, Leer, Bingum (campground)

The campsite manager shows us the shortest way to the Emsradweg.
It's a wonderful route on quiet roads and through small villages to Lathen, about 15 km. away.
At the baker we get a hearty breakfast, cycle through the town and continue the Emsradweg.
Sometimes we go along a canal and sometimes it is the river Ems. Here the Ems become so wide that even large ships can travel it. We watch a long ship showing us a turn-around maneuver where Ems meets Canal.

We wanted to go to Papenburg today. Here we have lunch (of course a fish menu) and see on a traffic sign that Leer is only 20 kilometers away. Because of the strong backwind we decide to continue traveling. It is only noon, too early to set up the tent now.
The campsite in Leer is on the other side of the Ems in Bingum. After the showers and pitching the tent we go to the restaurant. During the night there is a warm weather storm. Not surprising after 4 days with over 30 °.

Friday 23.06.2017 ..........................................................Leer - Delfzijl (The Netherlands)
Km 43.36
Time 2: 42
Height 69 m ..................................Bingum, Jemgum, Midlum, Ditzum, by ferry to Petkum, Emden, and by ferry to Delfzijl.

Our last leg of the Ems cycle route today goes to Emden where the Ems flows into the North Sea.
Because of the strong headwind and have a bit more time in Emden for a city stroll, we don't go too far today. The weather has become much cooler and partly covers the sky.
In the afternoon we go to the harbor to see how the ferry timetable looks to Delfzijl. At 16.30h a ship goes. We decide to go on this one.

When we arrive Delfzijl after one hour and a quarter on the ferry it starts to drizzle. We decide to find a private accommodation, camping in the rain is no fun.
As we cycle through the city we are approached by someone asking if we were looking for accommodation. We get a stay for the night without even looking for one! . It gets even better; we can use the washing machine and sit at the table for dinner. What a blessing we have met family van Santen. We have a pleasant evening in the middle of a Dutch family instead of on the campsite.

Saturday 24.06.2017 ......................................................................Delfzijl - Lauersoog
Km 68.77
Time 4:09
Height 72 m .................Delfzijl, Gasthuizen, Doodstil, Uithuizen, Noordpolderzijl, along the coast (Waddensee) to Lauersoog.

For the first time, we put on our pelts (gaiters are still in the closet at home) which I've made from 2 plastic bags gaiters so that the shoes remain dry. As soon as we reach Uithuizen (the first municipality with shops and bike shop) I'll buy myself gaiters but unfortunately the drizzle stopped and the try out has to be postponed.

It has become noon and time for fish and drink.
We follow the coastal road along the Wattenmeer (mud-flats). For a Wattensee hike (only under guidance) one has 5 hours time.
The ground is uneven. When the flood begins, the elevations are rinsed and you cannot see the depths and shallows anymore.
We continue along the dyke kilometer by kilometer. The only changes are grazing sheep which sometimes block the way.

The wind is stronger in the afternoon, unfortunately from the wrong direction. When we arrive in Lauersoog, the battery is almost empty, mind you in such a flat landscape flatter couldn't it be. But there is electricity to recharge. The positive of today, it has not rained any more.

Sunday 25.06.2017 ...................................................................Lauersoog - Franeker
Km 71.19
Time 4:43
Height 47 m ...............................................................Lauersoog, Dokkum, Leeuwarden, Franeker.

Because of drizzle I can try my new leggings, fortunately only until the afternoon and only partial ways.
We decided not to go on the coastal road again with so many headwinds, but a bit more in the interior of the country.
We are looking forward to a delicious breakfast after 15 kilometers but that is nothing. Everything is closed this Sunday except a hotel offering coffee with cakes, bread only from 12:00h on.

So 20 kilometers further to the capital of Friesland, Leeuwarden. You will not believe it; even at lunch time all restaurants are closed only in a few snack bars you can get fries and kebabs. One restaurant will be open at 16: 00h. I guess Friesland is strictly Calvinist.
But the bike paths are great mostly with red asphalt on which one cycles as smooth as velvet.
After pitching tent and have a shower in Franeker, we go to the tent place own restaurant and are glad that the drizzle in the morning was only of a short duration.

Monday 26.06.2017 ......................................................................Franeker - Westerland
Km 65.95
Time 3: 45
Height 68 m ...............................................Franeker, Harlingen, Zurich, Afsluitdijk, Den Oever, Westerland.

Hooray!, I spot an almost cloudless sky as I open the zipper from my tent. It remains so all day, except for a few clouds, so it doesn't look so boring.
Harlingen is 10 km away and have breakfast and sightseeing.
To Zurich 10 km, (pronounced as the 800 km distant Zürich in Switzerland because such vowel is not known in the Dutch alphabet) we reach the "afsluitdijk", a dyke who separate salt and fresh water.
The 30 km. Dike connecting the provinces Friesland and North-Holland was build in 1927 and completed in 1932.

We are lucky that the wind comes from north-west and the dike protects us from this wind. I notice how strong the wind blows when I stand on top of the dike.
After 20 kilometers we reach the monument, a lookout tower and a restaurant with photos on the walls from the men who built this with bare hands 90 years ago.
The restaurant is too crowded; we would have to be in a long queue, thing we do not want to do. We continue the last 10 km to Den Oever to lunch. And lo and behold, the first restaurant we see is a fish restaurant with enough space and quiet atmosphere.
At 16: 00h we are on the campground of Westerland. A cyclist who soon circumnavigated Holland has welcomed us, a few more days and he's back home. He has a comfortable folding chair and tells us where to buy it.

Tuesday 27.06.2017 .................................................................Westerland - Beverwijk
Km 68.72
Time 3:52
Height 72 m .....................................................Westerland, Schagen, Alkmaar, Heilo, Castricum, Beverwijk.

We cycle south-west via Anna Paulowna to Schagen. After about 25 km it is the first stop for breakfast. Noticeable in this area is that the roads are mostly straight, but the bike paths are wonderful to cycle on this smooth road surface.
After another 20 km we are in the cheese city Alkmaar.
The VVV (tourist office) shows us where we find the Bever sports chain. It is ust a few hundred meters away and easy to reach.
They have exactly what we are looking for. The folding chair is simple and fast assembled and weighs just 500 grams.

We pedal a bit further so that we have only a short trip tomorrow to Noordwijk (our place of birth).
I enter the address from the campsite on my GPS so we can reach our destination again on bike paths.
Of course we try our new folding chairs first. You sit great on them and they are quickly put together. The weather is ideal for picnics. Coffee with "Gevulde Koeken" (Dutch pastry) tastes much better on these folding chairs.

Wednesday 28.06.2017 ..............................................................Beverwijk - Noordwijk
Km 48.90
Time 2:59
Height 65 m ....Beverwijk, Velsen-Noord (with ferry over the Noordzeekanaal) Bloemendaal, Heemstede, Noordwijkerhout, Noordwijk.

It must have been raining last night, because the tent is wet. More importantly, it is dry when getting up and packing.
Nevertheless, the Pelerine is ready to hand. Fortunately, she stays there all day.
In Velsen-Noord we have to take the ferry over the Noordzeekanaal, (Connection from Amsterdam to the North Sea). It is free for people and bikes. A whole host of youths who have to go to school are also on board.
Via Ijmuiden we cycle through a national park, Zuid-Kennemerland, which we leave at Bloemendaal.

Via IJmuiden we cycle through a national park, Zuid-Kennemerland, which we leave at Bloemendaal.
It is a bit difficult to go get breakfast somewhere, because the bakers in the Netherlands do not offer breakfast like in Germany. But in Heemstede we have luck, in a department store chain.
Via de Zilk and Noordwijkerhout we arrive at noon in Noordwijk at our oldest sister.

Thursday 29.06., Friday 30.06. and Saturday 01.07. We make a cozy break in our birthplace.

Sunday 02.07.2017 ..........................................................................Noordwijk - Utrecht
Km 71.50
Time 3:46
Height 68 m .....................................................Noordwijk, Sassenheim, Leimuiden, Mijdrecht, Breukelen, Utrecht

Zuerst noch ein gutes Frühstück bei unserer Schwester damit wir gewappnet sind für die Rückreise, dann packen und auf die Velos.

First of all, a good breakfast with our sister so we are all set for the return journey, then pack and on the bikes.
The wind came from the end of the Emsradweg to Noordwijk from North-North-West = headwind. In the few days of rest in Noordwijk, it turned to South-West, which means; now we have a light backwind which is much more comfortable to cycle.

An interesting route is ahead of us. The following area is a few meters below sea level.
Where we are cycling now ships were driving earlier, for example from Sassenheim to Leimuiden along the Ringvaart of Haarlemermeerpolder. Haarlemermeer used to be a lake.
When people built houses on dry land, they did not realize that the houses were partially slipping away in the soft ground. The foundation has been neglected so that the old houses now show heavy cracks and are uninhabitable because of the risk of collapse.

The bike paths are simply a dream, so beautifully smooth. There are a lot of runners racing on these routes, because it is Sunday and the Tour de France is currently going on. This may stimulate when they sit in front of the TV in the evening and see how the professionals slave away.
Before we get to the metropolitan area of Utrecht I switch back my GPS. It is simply ingenious how the device leads us through the blast of a big city and always on bike paths.
We are already on the camping ground before 14:00h and make it comfortable.

Monday 03.07.2017 ...............................................................Utrecht - Arnhem (Lathumsee)
Km 76.56
Time 4:19
Height 196 m ...........................................................Utrecht, Zeist, Ede, Arnhem, Lathumseplas (small lake)

The tent is under the sun but we do not wait until it is completely dry. We'll dry it at the first picnic. We find a small supermarket with excellent products.
We are glad, because the shops are normally closed on Monday morning.

The landscape is very diverse. First through wooded area, then through a heath land (which flourishes in August/September but is still beautiful) and finally again meadow landscape with cows, chickens and geese.
The campsite is east of Arnhem on Lake Lathum.

Tuesday 04.07.2017 ....................................................................Arnhem - Winterswijk
Km 67.67
Time 3: 48
Height 61 m .............................................................Arnhem, Doetichem, Varsefeld, Aalten, Winterswijk

We have to go to the other side of the lake. Either south or north, this means a ferry ride. We do not know how often the ferry leaves, but we prefer to go on the safe side and take the southern route.
Even today the trip is very varied, first over the IJsel (a side arm of the Rhine) with pastureland, then again through forests with slightly hilly terrain and finally through "de Achterhoek", a country characterized by peasants with individual farms or small villages.

We come past a grain windmill and see that today is the open day. We take this chance and we can visit the mill until the top. Two men are there to explain us everything, how old it is, how much the rotating top weighs, what is ground, etc.
One kilometer in front of the German border (which is no longer visible) lays the camp de Rotmanshoeve. It is a small but fine place.

Wednesday 05.07.2017 .....................................................Winterswijk - Nottuln (Germany)
Km 65.31
Time 3:52
Height 255m. .........................................................Winterwijk, Weseke, Velen, Coesfeld, Billerbeck. Nottuln.

It is only 11 kilometers to our cousins in Weseke. We arranged by telephone that we will pop by. Christel has also asked her two sisters to join, such a nice surprise. We have not seen them for years, the greater is the joy. Coffee and cakes are already on the table when we arrive. Later the brother-in-law comes along too.
After 1 to 2 hours, we leave again, because the journey continues.

We buy food for the day in Velen, and have a breather in a park of a castle surrounded by moats.
Also here the bike paths are good. I switch on my GPS so we can cycle everywhere on bike paths. In Coesfeld, the battery from the GPS slack. No problem because a coffee break is already due. While the battery is charging, we enjoy a coffee with cakes.

We cycle toward the campground between Billerbeck and Nottuln. When we arrive there we learn that the campsite has been changed into a year-stay camping but 4 kilometers further down in Nottuln there is a youth hostel. We go there as we are both members. There is also a surprise. It is converted and is closed. No problem, because one call is enough to reserve a room in the same place in a guest house.

Thursday 06.07.2017 ....................................................................Nottuln - Warendorf
Km 50.19
Time 2:59
Height 127 m ........................................................Nottuln, Tilbeck, Roxel, Munster, Telgte, Warendorf

After breakfast in the guest house Kruse we are ready to leave, as there is not much to pack. We look forward to the beautiful weather.
Yesterday we were straight along endless grain fields. This continues today. This must be the grain area of North Rhine-Westphalia. The distance to Münster is only 20 km. When the first houses come into view, I type "Münsterplatz" on my GPS and not long afterwards we are on it. The sun illuminates the cathedral and comes to good effect. There is a big stage on the square; there will be a pop concert tonight.

We have cycled through the quiet nature for so long that we feel the many people and traffic as a disturbing activity.
We continue quickly to the manageable and cozy town of Telgte.
I look at the pilgrimage church from the inside, with the 600 year old Pietà. The Pietà was made in 1370 of poplar wood. A weather protection was built in the 15th century for this image of grace and in the 16th century, a chapel of stone.
We treat ourselves to an ice cream. The weather is so nice on the cozy market square, we are in no hurry Rika has coffee and I get a draught beer.
In the early afternoon we set up our tent in Warendorf, take a shower and cycle into the pretty town.

Friday 07.07.2017 ..........................................................................Warendorf - Hövelhof
Km 65.80
Time ? Has put in my pants pocket on 0.
Height? Dito.............................................................Warendorf, Harsenwinkel, Güterloh, Verl, Hövelhof

It has been raining tonight, better said pouring down. But when I look out of the tent at 6:30 am, I do not trust my eyes, blue sky and a few clouds as decoration.
After 10 km of early sport we reach Harsenwinkel. The baker Haverkamp makes us a nice breakfast. The temperature is already so pleasant that we can sit outside on the terrace overlooking the beautiful church in blue and white.
I get the impression that the nature here is a bit further than before Münster, because most grain fields are already harvested here.
In Hövelhof we are already at 15:30h.
I am glad that our car is still in the same place as 3 weeks ago, when we started the journey.
The surrounding campers (yearly stay) welcomed us kindly and told us that they had taken well care of the car. 2 of them are Englishmen stationed here. They are proud to see our tents coming from England. "Very good tent, Vango 200," one says, bringing a similar one out of his camper and showing it to us.
We buy food and drink, because tomorrow will be a long return trip to Switzerland.

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