Corsica from 08. until 23 Mai 2010
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I spend this year my spring break in Corsica. An ideal country to test my new Cannondale bike with electric components from Bionx. (Motor, battery and display). A mountainous island, big enough to cycle around a fortnight. By train, I'll go from Zurich to Livorno. A ferry of "corsica ferries" will take me to Bastia. Here I begin to circle counter clockwise around Corsica. First I'm going up to Cap Corse, then via Saint Florent, Calvi, Porto, Ajaccio and Sarténe to Bonifatio, the very south of the island. Northbound I'll spend a few days in the inland mountains. |
In Pisa I get out of the train to see the lopsided tower |
Pisa with the river Arno. Tomorrow is taking of for the "Corsica ferries" |
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Napoleon statue on the Place St. Nicholas in Bastia |
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Livorno - Bastia in 4 hours with Corsica ferries |
10th May 2010 Bastia - Centuri Port (Cap Corse)
59.59 Km. altitude 608 meters.
At 8:15. the ferry leaves Livorno and arrives at Bastia at 12:00 o'clock.
I cycle through the city to get an impression of it. I take a few photos from the Napoleon statue on the huge square
St.Nicola. The citadel is closed, due to renovations.
The afternoon tour runs along the sea of Cap Corse to the campsite in Macinaggio. Unfortunately it is closed and
will open in two days. The owner refers me to the nearest place in Centuri Port. It is only 15 km away, but over
the Col de Serra. (396m.)
So far, the roads have been good but from now on I have to avoid the holes. The sidewalks have been replaced and
I assume the road surface will be done next.
A 5 minutes walk from the Col de Serra, there is the only remaining intact windmill of Corsica. It was restored
by the company Mattei and is used as advertising space for a well-known liqueur of Cape Corse. From here I can
see the small fishing village of Centuri-Port.
I find out that this campground is closed to. Fortunately, I see five mobile homes on a gravel stand specially
made to stay overnight. In addition to the gravel place is a beautiful meadow and it is clear to me, I will pitch
my tent there tonight.
First I to a restaurant for dinner and recharge the battery because it's getting late. (time for charging 3 hours)
Place St Nicolas surrounded by coffee terraces under plane trees |
Many towers along the East Coast |
Tour de Losse |
From time to time I have to wait |
View on Centuri Port seen |
from Moulin Mattei |
The west coast of Cap Corse |
11th May 2010 Centuri-Port - Saint-Florent
Km. 65 ---------total 124.59
Height 789 ----total - 1397
I ride through small villages such as Pino and Marinca to Monza with nearly an almost constant view on the sea
and some steep slopes. Nonza is something special. The houses are placed around a big hill; it looks as if the
tower protects the inhabitants. From the mid-20th century "asbestos" was mined here. I cycle along the
large factory which is closed now. The waste was simply thrown into the sea. This formed over the years an artificial
beach, which shimmer green-gray in the sun. Experts have claimed that the beach is not a danger to humans. (Any
one who believes is saved).
The road from Nonza on is decent again.
I arrive at Saint-Florent early in the afternoon. The more time I have to visit the little town the better.
Once at the campsite, it starts a thunderstorm, lightning and it begins to rain in torrents. The best to do now
is to have an extensive shower. Back from the shower room, it looks like the summer is back.
Here, the road is good again |
Shut down Astbestos factory in Nonza |
Artificial beach with asbestos deposits in Nonza |
Mausoleum on the roadside (family tombs) |
Saint Florent in sight |
The Corsicans as the French like to play pétanque |
Lush bloom now in May |
12th May 2010 Saint-Florent - Calvi
Km. 81.23 ----- total 205.82
Height 955 -----total --2352
The only connection between Saint-Florent and L'Ile Rousse is the D81. First, there is an ascent to about 300 meters
and then "rolling hills".
A barren landscape, the rocks are sparsely covered with vegetation but it is nevertheless appealing.
I's noon in L'ile Rousse. The terraces are an invitation for "lunch break".
I think the authorities here could do something about the traffic chaos. Everyone thinks he has to drive through
the town. The scooters go back and forth and also between the cars. But nobody seems to mind. You have to take
the steps forward, otherwise you get nowhere. Amazingly, no one sounds the horn. (Fortunately)
I buy something to eat and drink, mainly fruit. Tomorrow is Ascension Day and the stores are closed.
2 km before the centre of Calvi, I see a campsite in a pine forest. The reception is still closed but I can set
up the tent. It's gorgeous summer weather. A strong wind is blowing, and of a sudden, the camp is covered in a
cloud of yellow pollen of pine trees. (Very impressive)
Almost every section has its own electrical connection, so I have no problem to load the battery.
I am glad that I'm so early in Calvi because there is so much to see. By bike, I can cycle up the citadel, and
have a fantastic view of the lower port city.
Between L'ile Rousse and Calvi. A ferry runs straight into the harbour |
Landscape between St.Florent and Pietra Monetta D81 |
Lunch break in L'ile Rousse |
Golfe de Calvi |
Citadel of Calvi. I can ride my bike in a circle to the upper town |
Citadel of Calvi, seen from the port |
The Port of Calvi |
13th May 2010 Calvi - Porto
Km. 81.21 ------ total 287.03
Height 957 ----- total - 3309
I take the coast road to Porto D81. It is a very winding road. I'm looking forward to the descents. With electric
assistance my ascent speed is up to 10 to 13 Km. /hours. Unfortunately I am not much faster on the descent. The
asphalt is so full of holes that it is too dangerous to cycle faster. It's until Galéria like this then
again the road surface is superb to cycle on.
There are some small peaks (bocca's in the Corsican language) for example the Col de Palmarella and Col de la Croix,
but that makes the ride more interesting and varied. I meet many cyclists, e.g. two ladies from Amsterdam.
The last 10 km before Porto, the streets are literally hewn from the rocks.
The campsite is luxurious in Porto. However, the only one of Corsica I have been, which cost. € 3.50 to load the
battery. (the real expenses are a few cents)
At supper, a Swiss couple sitting at the table next to me tells that they were involved in an accident this afternoon.
The motorcyclist had to be flown to hospital by helicopter.
Rugged cliffs shortly after Calvi |
Two ladies from Amsterdam |
Certainly many rocks have been blown up to build this road |
The Corsican name for col is Bocca |
Many times facing the sea |
Scattered small villages between the mountains |
This cow doesn't move even for the cars |
Beautiful to watch but hard to live here |
The small wall doesn't protect much at a fall so better |
Magnificent beaches very nice for snorkelling |
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pay attention and stay on the road |
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and swimming here |
The rock with his tower in Porto Marina |
14th May 2010 Porto - Ajaccio
Km 87.11 --------- total 374.14
Height 1299 ------ total --4608
From Porto (at sea level) I take the road along the coast direction Calanche. It starts with an ascent of 400 meters.
A completely new appearance, the red granite cliffs and bizarre forms are striking. Since 1983 it is under the
Unesco World Heritage. (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calanche)
The road again is carved out of the rocks, one curve after the other. The motorcyclists
have a joyful ride. I think they don't see anything of the landscape while driving, as they have to concentrate
too much on the road.
Between San Martinu and Cargèse the road is terrible, but from Cargese on, the road is again superb.
In Ajaccio I'm looking for the tourist office to get some information about the city (about 60,000 inhabitants)
and to search for the closest camping. In 1769, Napoleon Bonaparte was born here. His birthplace Pl. Létitua
is not far away from Place Foch harboring an oversized statue of the Emperor.
It is not easy to drive a car in this city but with my bike I get anywhere easily. Fortunately, it is still early,
so there remains a few hours for sightseeing.
Review of Porto |
At supper |
Unesco World Heritage Site |
The west coast of Corsica |
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When the sun goes down these mountains glow purple |
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Time and again, facing the sea |
Golfe de Pero |
Cargèse |
Tiuccia |
<Mausoleum, probably a better Corsican family on the roadside --------------------------------------Golfe de la Liscia ^ |
15th May 2010 Ajaccio - Sartène
Km. --99.14 --------- total 473.28
Height 1733 ----------total --6341
It must have rained terribly last night because the tent is filled up with soil dust and fir needles to one third
high. The tent stands next to the sanitary facility. I carry it there and clean it with a garden hose, hoping that
I can spread it out to dry it in the sun somewhere in the afternoon.
Just a few miles outside the city, the ascent begins. It is 750 meters up to the Col de St. George. The roads are
good and the slope is moderate, climbing no more than 6%. Here is the source of water that I see in every supermarket.
I cycle along the factory where the water is bottled.
I've been very fortunate with the weather, for about one hour I need my pelerine, but it gets sunny in the afternoon.
I can spread out my tent during picnic time.
Sartène is the most typical Corsican city of all, according to my travel Paperback. This region is the land
of "vendetta". I see there are no individual graves, but only family mausoleums. I see many of them along
the roadside. That shows to me how strong the family bond still is.
Like many towns and villages, Sartène is located on a mountain. Despite the climb, I want to see the town.
With electric support, the effort is not exhausting, it is even fun.
I find out later, that the campground is located, at the foot of the mountain -of course-.
Ajaccio in the early morning, people |
already play boules. Place Foch ^ |
The first Col for today |
Scattered settlements |
Sartène, for me a bit |
gloomy city |
16th May 2010 Sartène - Bonifatio
Km 64.05 ------total 537.33
Height 836 ----total --7177
The ascent up to Sarène is 300 metres; it is the only way to Bonifatio.
Again there are a couple of small passes for today with nice vantage points, even to the sea. After crossing the
Col de Coralli I get down to the sea. The road makes a turn to the east, and now I enjoy a tailwind for the first
time in this trip.
Due to the tailwind and electric support, I arrive in St. Bonifatio already at high noon. For visiting this beautiful
city, the whole afternoon is at my disposal.
The city has a deep inlet used as harbour, and the old town with the Citadel is build on the 60 m high cliffs.
A beautiful city to take pictures.
In the evening I clean the chain and sprocket of my bike at the campground. After seven days cycling, the crunch
sound tells me that it is time to do it now.
Arriving in the south the weather looks like summer is back.
Lush vegetation |
Back at the sea |
Suddenly a very different landscape with vineyards and meadows mown |
17th May 2010 Bonifatio - Zonza
Km. -69.66 ---------- total 606.99
Höhe 1283 ---------- total ---8460
It's nice to get up without a single cloud in the sky. A slight tailwind and flat terrain makes me fly to Porto
Vecchio. Here I make a "mid-morning snack break."
From now on the ascent is 600 meter over a distance of 40 km. This is not a very steep slope.
I am very disappointed, after 300 meters altitude the electronics fail, even though the display shows that there
is enough power available.
Now I have to cycle without support. I am glad that I decided to buy a bicycle with 27 gears. So I get to the top
a little slower and with a few more drops of sweat. (At the end of the report, I describe what has been the cause.)
<Stairs to the uppertown ----------------The Port of Bonifatio ^ |
A long inlet from the sea to the port |
The chalk cliffs of Bonifatio |
The west side of Bonifatio |
Signs of earlier settlement |
Upper town |
Citadel seen from the harbour |
Today I meet many people with whom I have a chat, including a couple from southern Germany
near the Swiss border.
At 16:00 h. I'm in Zonza. It surprises me that I find a restaurant with warm kitchen is open at this time of the
day. To eat at this time of the day is ideal. I have enough appetite and thirst for a big meal. By the time I go
to bed, between 21:00 and 22:00 most of it is already digested.
2 km descent, direction Quenza, is the campsite.
The couple of southern Germany I met this afternoon is already on the campsite lying in a lounger.
Porto-Veccio. |
Ascent to Zonza. |
Drink break |
A large artificial lake |
Steady up on beautiful streets |
Different scene on the east side |
The campground is located 2 km from Zonzo direction Quenza |
Much shade for the summer |
18th May 2010 Zonza - Ghisonaccia
Km 62.92 ----- total 669.91
Height -774 ---total --9234
Today it's the Bavella pass at about 1,200 meters to cycle up. The campground is at about 500M. i.e. 700 meters
altitude difference this morning. The advantage, it goes up moderate, maximum 6%.
With good road surface, little traffic and step on constantly I get to the summit at lunchtime. It is teeming with
tourists. With coaches, cars, motorcycles and even racing bikes they arrive. The panorama is beautiful.
The descent to the sea at Solenzara is a stunner, love to cycle through this beautiful landscape with many forests
and newly-developed road. I stop several times not only to photographing but also to enjoy the landscape. I discover
a slope with orchids, I have never seen in the wild.
The last 15 km to Ghisonaccia are flat.
At the campsite is only a long-term camper. Later, joins a couple who comes to the island for climbing.
The campsite is located in a poplar forest with hanging fruit stands, in full bloom. The seeds are provided with
a head of hair. With each gust of wind the seeds whirl through the air like snowflakes. The grass is partly covered
up with this hair.
The second camp (a 4 star) is located directly on the sea in a pine forest. The two sites are located 2-3 km apart.
I take my bike to see what it looks like; maybe I meet the couple from yesterday who wanted to stay here. The campsite
is huge and crowded with people but no chance, far too large to find someone here. I meet a Dutch couple; they
invite me to a glass of wine. It is already dark when I start my way home.
On the Bavellapass are many people |
Zonza. |
Bavella Pass. |
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I see an entire hillside with orchids |
At the gardener I have seen them several times but never wild in the forest |
Bavella massif |
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The decent is great, |
small streams and mountains |
The Bavella massif . |
Little short distance |
to the next curve |
Down in the valley with clear water |
for swimming pools |
This vegetation I have seen mostly in the north |
The seeds with mops of hair from the |
poplars gives the impression of snowing |
19th May 2010 Ghisonaccia - Bastia
Km 94.01 -------total 763.92
Height -355 ----total -- 9589
When I get up, the weather still looks reasonably good, although the mountains are covered with thick clouds. A
climb to Corte, the former capital of the island, is no question. There is rain in the air, so I decide to cycle
along the coast to Bastia. If the weather is ok, I can do another 2 day trip in the mountains. If the weather is
bad I prefer to be in the city.
As expected, it starts to rain in the afternoon with thunder and lightning. I prepare myself with cape and gaiters
and go on cycling, sometimes through violent rain, sometimes lighter until just before the camping San Damiano.
The three star camping site is located 10 Km south of Bastia on a narrow land strip, which forms the Etang de Biguglia.
For € 10.50 a day I can pick a place. Here I stay three nights. I can leave my luggage in the tent and leave at
the reception the battery with the charger I. Now I can go up as a lightweight mountain biker.
When I set up my tent, a woman offers me a folding chair with back and armrest she will not take the chair home.
In the armrest is a device for my coffee cup. (posh) I will give it to another cyclist when I check out in three
days.
The east coast is relatively flat and planted with many vines |
Further inland, the weather doesn't look good |
Fruits of palm trees |
20th May 2010 trip to the Nebbio heights
Km ---64.27 ------ total 828.19
Height 1007 ------ total 10 596
Early in the morning I go first to the port of Bastia |
A new plaster would not hurt |
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Always written in two languages, of which the French is often paint over |
Visibility to the east to the Etang de Biguglia. On the narrow strip lies the campsite San Damiano |
The staircase with 28 steps of the chapel of Moserrato, a copy of the Basilica San Giovanni in Rome |
View on the other side, to the west with |
Saint Florent in the background |
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Church of San Michele de Murato 1300 century |
It promises to be a beautiful day because the sun is already high in the sky when I stretch
my head out of the tent.
To go to the harbour, first I have to find out the shortest path and how many kilometres, on Saturdays ferry leaves
the port at 8:00 in the morning. The receptionist estimated 5-6 km in reality it is exactly 12 Km.
In Bastia, I take the D81 up to the Bocca di Teghime at 537 meters.
Without luggage I come up very well, cycle not in the lowest gear and have a few gearwheels in reserve when it
gets steeper.
After 2 km I turn into a small road that leads to the Oratoire de Monserrato. The chapel contains a rarity that
exists only in Rome, Lourdes and Fatima, called the Scala Santa, with 28 steps which is a copy of the Holy Stairs
in the Basilica San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome.
Now I'am off to the Col de Teghime. The view above is fantastic. To the east, I have views of the plains, south
of Bastia, the Etang de Biguglia and to the other side of the island the west, San Florent. It is so nice that
I insert a longer pause.
Now I cycle along the western side of the mountain range to Oletta.
Because of the sudden unexpected deep holes on this narrow road, biking is tricky otherwise it is a good road surface.
In Oletta, a picturesque town on a hillside, I meet a couple with bicycles and luggage, which I've already met
in Porto, six days ago. For them, the holidays are soon over, they must be at home in three days to work, the more
I appreciate to be retired.
I'm going to San Michele de Murato, a church located 450 meters above sea level on a hilltop. Typical of the style
are the large dark green and white limestone blocks, which give this church from the 13th. Century its character.
I cycle down on the D62 to Bastia. It is called "Défilé de Lancon. I have never cycled such
a winding road with such steep slopes.
Fortunately, not much traffic |
French is paint over |
Etang de Biguglia |
21th May 2010 trip to the north - west of Bastia.
Km. 45.55 ----- total 873.74
Height 493 -----total 11 089
It's like yesterday picture-book weather.
North of Bastia, I take the first left which leads into the mountains. The whole slope is covered with beautiful
villas. My Travel - Paperback speaks of "American Villas" for those buildings, which are houses of Corsican
exiles, who earned money in North and South America and spend it here, to live the old days in their native country.
I see roofers working on a new roof. They invite me to come up and see how they work. The slate plates are first
carved and sawn to the right form, then stick together with putty and the edges with mortar. It takes a month to
finish a roof. This makes a roof very expensive but it last at least 200 years, he says.
I go to San Martino di Lota, a remote village with a large church, restaurant and terrace with beautiful views
of Bastia and the sea.
I cycle along the mountain slopes north until I join the road D80, which leads me back to the campground.
Each house has its citrus fruits |
slate roofs are common |
Cactus as big as a house |
Formerly the house covers were without exeption made of slate |
Many small hamlets with a large |
church and at least one restaurant |
Weit abgelegen von der Stadt |
It needs one month to cover a roof |
It's stick together with putty |
and the edges with mortar |
22th May 2010 with the ferry to Livorno.
The trip takes 4 hours.
Buy a ticket at the station of Livorno for the bike. (I couldn't get one in Switzerland) Buy something to eat and
drink for tomorrow on the train to Zurich, (tomorrow is Pentecost) and cycle 12 Km. south to the Camping Miramare.
The campings in Italy are very expensive. The costs are twice as much as in Corsica, € 20. for one night bike,
tent and one adult.
The train is leaving at 05:55 h. i.e. early to bed and early to get up.
Farewell to Corsica. This beach is adjacent to the campground.--- Many motorcyclists leave the ferry> |
Nice end for my |
spring cycle tour in Corsica |
P.S. Back home I bring my electric bike to my bicycle dealer. An agent of Bionx Company is invited to find out what is wrong with the electronic. He knows the problem and changes the software and guaranteed that it will not happen again with this new software.