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Prague - Zürich (Bremgarten) 20.Juni - 04 Juli 2016

The luggage bags and bikes are ready to leave the train.

Prague train station. It's Overcast but dry.


Our comfortable coupe on the train.


In the evening Gaby (my sister's daughter) brings us in the pouring rain to the railway station in Zurich. We (my sister and I) take the City Night Line train to Prague. (Leaving 21:45) The train no longer runs next year, a great pity. It is pleasant to spend such a long distance (around 12 hours) sleeping.

We arrive at the station of Prague somewhere after 09:00h. My GPS lead us to Pension Beta (Youth Hostel). We can use our rooms immediately, although still very early, and leave our bikes safely.
Now we have one and a half day to visit the city. Just before the Hostel is a tram stop to get into the center.

What a beautiful city and the weather is as desired, no rain and the sky partially
After exhausting 2 days and many kilometers by foot, we begin our actual bike trip back to Bremgarten CH.

One of the most famous sons of the city of Prague.

Entering the Charles Bridge.>

Charles Bridge with view of cathedral St. Vita. (St. Vitus Cathedral)

The next day the sun came out. The Vltava

Sightseeing with Segway. One can see the electrical appliances anywhere in the city

St Nicholas Church.

Carriages as in Vienna.

The dancing house. >

Custom built for this pavement.

The Vltava is ideal for boating, the flow is very slow.

and so many people are waiting for this, approximately two-minute spectacle.

Window above, still closed


The figures show and rotate only very briefly.

Beautifully decorated facades.

Before we climb the 210 steps we treat ourselves first coffee break.

Prag - Beroun

Day 1, Wednesday, 22nd June. 2016
Km. 52.26
Time 3:32
Height 284 meters

Very countryside between Prague and Beroun.

I turn on my GPS, to be sure to get out of town without a detour and get on the right track. It makes an excellent job; it recognizes the cycle tracks and saves us from car traffic. We cycle along the Vltava up to the mouth of the Berounka. We will follow this River until the city of Beroun.
In Pilsen (the second largest city in the Czech Republic) different rivers come together and get here the name Berounka. The flow is a lot narrower and shallower than the Vltava and is not navigable. It meanders through the countryside and the communities have made beautiful picnic areas. We use them a few times, because on the first day we set out a not too long trip distance.

Shortly before the Berounka flows into the Vltava.

Every few kilometers the same picnic chairs but in blue, green or pink.

The Berounka is shallow and not passable except canoes and rubber boats.

The village Treban is divided by the river. We need to get over the bridge. At the station a steep staircase leads to the bridge, which gets a spectacular affair. One in front of the bike, one on the rear and so we get both bikes down without removing the panniers. On the other side of the river we pass the restaurant U Máni. It smells so good, it is lunch time and we are happy to a shady spot. The weather is so nice; I do not know how we've earned that. It is almost too nice because the temperature rises above 37 degrees. In the evening we learn that it continuously rains in Switzerland.
In the early afternoon we arrive in the town Beroun. I'm surprised how pleasant and cozy the small town is, with a beautiful market square and facades as in Prague. On the left bank is located the campsite. After we pitched the tents and take a shower we decide to go for a drink (to compensate the body water level), what better than a Pils in Pilsner tradition?

The Berounka River is quite wide near the town of Beroun.

With such nice weather forecast we pitch our tent.

Entrance to the city of Beroun.

Beroun - Pilsen

Day 2, Thursday, 23rd June. 2016
Km. 79.71
Time 4:47
Height 769 meters

Through the town of Beroun direction Pilsen and soon we are in the great outdoors.

Last night I had a conversation with a cyclist from the region of Stuttgart. He wants to cycle from the source to the mouth of the river Elbe. From Prague there will be a possibility to travel to the source by public transport. On my tablet map I see that a train leaves to Höhenelbe. From there you can cycle another 15 kilometers to Spindlermühle, but the source is still 8 Km. North nearly to the Polish border, only accessible on foot.

A young woman wanted to take a picture of us with the background the town hall.

We follow this small river many kilometers. A stork ??

In Myto v. Cechach we stop for lunch.

We have set ourselves Pilsen as daily goal. If we fail, there are still some camp sites in between and the night in a guest house (only in bad weather) here costs as much as a campground at home.
Today we wake up again with a bright blue sky. The GPS takes us over hill and dale. The pros, it keeps us away from the street noise, the cons, we hardly come forward. Sometimes I turn off the GPS, and we adhere to the road signs.

With temperature of about 30 degrees

we have a rest under a the shady tree.

The Berounka between Chrast and Druztova.

View from the campground on the lake Velky Bolevecký rybnik.

Many flowers on the roadside.

< sometimes spectacular paths.

In Myto, halfway, we stop for lunch and a long siesta. At about 30 degrees it is the best for us. In the evening we eat mainly something small and drink much. We are lucky that the road in the afternoon leads almost entirely through the forest. Via Rockany we reach the campground at Lake Velky Bolevecký Ribnik, on the northern edge of Pilsen. Unfortunately, the WiFi does not always work. Although there is a connection, the messages remain in the Outbox. For example, here in the camp, there is only connection nearby the reception. Last week they had a terrible storm. All Internet connections paralyzed, was the excuse.

Pilsen - Primda (15 Km. before the Bavarian border)

Day 3, Friday, 24th June. 2016
Km. 70.84
Time 4:25
Height 839 meter

In the suburb of Pilsen.

Magistrat mesta Plzne.

< St. Bartolomäus cathedral.

We went to the center of the city. The GPS leads us to our destination, nám Republiky, (6 Km.) via adventurous paths where we try not to lose balance. Now, with dry clima, is feasible, but if would have rained, we would probably first need a shower before we could go into the center.
With view to the Kathedrála Bartolom?je we get a breakfast in a stylish cafeteria. The facades of houses in the larger cities of the Czech Republic are fantastic and the panoramic view of the enormous space is breathtaking.

The beautiful city of Pilsen

with its richly decorated facades.

Again in the countryside.

Three images of bor on the right "Zamek Bor"

(Palace Haid)

The direction Vejprenice on street 203 is easy to find. We are glad that there are clear cycle paths along this road. A small river gives us the impression that we are far away from the city and in the wild.
We stay on the 203 to Benešovice then turn left to Bor where we have lunch.
Our destination is Waidhaus (Germany.) Because the temperature has risen to 37.4 and the ascent up to Primda not want to stop, we decide after we have reached the top, not to go further and seek an accommodation here, where we find the Hotel Horsky Kolowart.

Belongs to Castle Haid, but is outside the castle walls.

In the town of Bor.

View from the hotel Kolowrat in Primda.

Primda - Hirschau (Germany)

Day 4, Saturday, 25th June. 2016
Km. 73.29
Time 3: 50
Height 519 meters

Waidhaus (Germany).

Saturday morning almost no traffic.

Wernberg - Köblitz.

The non-ceasing rise yesterday, is now downwards on the other side. I look at my bike computer and see that it is going down exactly 4 Km., without moving the pedals. Soon we cross the border to Bavaria. Via Waidhaus we go to Vohenstrauß and have coffee with cake in a Bavarian Bakery. We want to change the leftover Czech banknotes but all banks are closed on Saturdays.
Along the main road (new 50, new 41) are many bike paths. The short distances that do not have bike paths are almost empty because it is Saturday. In addition, nearby runs a highway that swallows most traffic.

Marketplace in Wernberg - Köblitz.

Along the way.

Water level must be balanced.

City Hall in Hirschau, via a vis the inn.

Two in leather trousers and feather in the cap.

Our accommodation for the night.

A second break is in Wernberg - Köblitz. There is some sort of celebration as lots of people have gathered in their Sunday dresses.
The slopes are very moderate, about 2 to 3% but long lasting. It is again very warm, around 35 degrees, so we have to reckon with heat thunderstorms. The Bavarian weather forecast has the same opinion. For this reason, we opt for an accommodation in an inn. Opposite the town hall in Hirschau we find a suitable accommodation. In this city is a huge artificial mountain called Monte Kaolino, it is 120 meters high consisting of silica sand. It is now used as an amusement park, in winter skiing and in summer sand boarding.
The mountain was created by the extraction of kaolin known as china clay or earth Pfeiffer. This creates a huge hole and the mountain is incurred as a waste product.

Hirschau - Nürnberg

Day 5, Sunday, 26th June. 2016
Km. 81.98
Time 4: 40
Height 513 meters.

In addition to the B 14, a cycle path.

First Mass celebration in Hahnbach.

Luckily the temperature has dropped. At 20 and 25 degrees, it is ideal for cycling.
This stage I could summarize in 2 parts. The first part, 40 Km. we cycle a constant up and down, with increases of 2 to 4%. This Sunday morning we use a lot of the federal highway 14. We have the road to ourselves today.
The second part is flat to the city of Nuremberg and all on a great paved bike path. This road has a name: Panorama, bike path along 5 rivers. The last is called Pegnitz.
The gate and the road to Hahnbach are decorated with flowers. On a banner we read "Hahnbach greets his Primizianten". That is the first Mass of a priest after ordination, and the priest even comes from this village.
We do not wait until the show is finished but rather continue to Sulzbach-Rosenberg. We notice again and again how many solar panels are mounted on rooftops and elsewhere, surely more than half of all buildings are equipped with it.


Sulzbach - Rosenberg. Because a city run and festival we came not through the city.

We pass many solar panels.

Paneuropa-Radweg From Paris to Prag.

< Although closer to Nuremberg, almost no traffic.

In Lauf an der Pegnitz, the river has already become very broad.
Shortly before Nuremberg I turn on my GPS so we can find the way to the Imperial Castle (inside is the Youth Hostel). There we will stay for two nights.
I think Nuremberg is worth an extra day to visit.
We get a room on the 8th floor in the tower. The elevator goes to the 7. the castle is located on the highest mountain of Nuremberg. We can't have a better view. The oldest architectural traces from this castle are from the year 1000 AD.

Nürnberg an der Pegnitz.

Exploring Old Town

Day 6, Monday, 24th June. 2016

After breakfast we walk down the hill to Sebaldus Church. The caretaker is watering the flowers around the church on this sunny day. He speaks to us and says; if we want to visit the church he will open the door for us. We get almost a private guide and much information.
For example, the city Nuremberg became part of Bavaria 1808. It was a Protestant city. During WW2 the beautiful Nuremberg was almost completely destroyed (90%, we can view images how it looked after the war), however, the neighboring town Fuerth, which was a thriving Jewish community, only about 10%.
Incidentally, Henry Kissinger, former American political scientist, was born in 1923 in Fürth. He is still an honorary member of the football club Fürth.
The river Pegnitz forms an island in the old city. At present, 4000m3 are covered with kaolin silica sand (surely from the kaolin mine of Hirschau) to convey an air of a South Sea island. Deckchairs, water games and many stalls are to imitate holiday life.
What impressed me most is the reconstructed city wall almost around the old town. I have never seen such a long fortification wall in a city.
It is fascinating to stroll all day through the town to take pictures and look at many attractions, but also very tiring. Cycling a full day is less strenuous.

<Hostel in medieval castle.^

Sebalduschurch. Sebaldus saint of the city>

Enormously large variety of breads.

< Frauenkirche.

Youth Hostel from the inside. >

Pegnitz river seen from the museumbridge. ^

The city wall well built again. >

< Marriage carousel

Pegnitz seen from the "Fleischbrücke".^

< St. Lorenzchurch.

Tower at Handwerkerhof. >

View of the castle from our room.


Sebalduschurch seen from the Youth Hostel.

Nürnberg - Treuchtlingen

Day 7, Tuesday, 28th June. 2016
Km. 86.32
Time 5:12
Height 597 meters

Soon the grain is to be harvested.

Breakfast is as from 7:30. The panniers are already fitted on the bikes and we are ready to start after brushing our teeth.
The GPS will lead us safely through the city to Schwabach 20 kilometers away. We have our first coffee break in a fine bakery in the center.
Without GPS but on bike paths we head to Roth. Along the way we meet a couple who is on a day trip. We have a brief conversation with Mr. and Mrs. Böhm. The brief encounters make the journey so interesting.
Our destination is Pleinfeld at the Brombachsee, because we made so good progress we have lunch here in Pleinfeld instead pitching our tent.
At the butcher's are a few tables and chairs and at the counter we can select from various menus.

On the edge of the city of Nuremberg, we cross the Main - Danube Canal.

In the first city Schwabach we take a coffee break.

We meet at another breather the Fam. Böhm. We find out that a lot of Hops grows here.

Already the first hop fields are seen.

Through the Altmühltal with its many mills.

We go through this gate to Pleinfeld.

We cycle down the Altmühltal, a beautiful valley with many mills such as Mäusleinsmühle. In various gardens we see erected millstones as decoration.
Along the Altmühl River, it goes on to Ellingen. There a cyclist recommends us making a detour around Weissenburg in Bavaria to get to Treuchtlingen, our destination for today. We pass through small hamlets like Schmalwiesen, Weimersheim and Holzingen to Treuchtlingen.
Of course we made some more kilometers and a constant up and down, but this detour was worth it. The first camp is only for camper vans. Fortunately there is another for tents. This place is mainly used by people traveling by canoe on the Altmühl River. There is a nice berth. A man gets out of his boat and tells us that there are few places where you can go ashore with the boat, because both sides have high reeds on both sides and you must have the canoe under control as the river is flowing in curves.
In the evening I like to go to a restaurant to write my daily report, to organize photos and especially to have a beer.

We pass a lot of cornfields.

The Karlsgraben at Treuchtlinger district is the first ancestor of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal.

Campground in Treuchtlingen. Just a few canoe trip were there. Sanitary facilities and electricity is available. Everything shipshape.

Treuchtlingen - Dillenburg on the Danube

Day 8, Wednesday, 29th June. 2016
Km. 73.97
Time 4:24
Height 676 meters

The weather looks threatening but it was getting better.

This route is worth to be to cycled.

Through a lot of forest and the trails are good to cycle.

We are early on the road, we stay away from the main road and take a peaceful route via Möhren bicycle path to Otting. The clouds look menacing initially but there is luckily no rain. On the contrary, the weather gets always better.
In Tapfheim at the Danube we stop for lunch. It is still early in the afternoon and its only 20 km to Dillenburg so we can take our time. We are glad that there is a bike path along the main road 16; the side path is even lined with fantastic wild flowers.
We are the first ones to pitch our tents on the small meadow for cyclist. Later, some are added also a pair of Alkmaar (Holland). They are on their way back from Rome. They had very bad weather. It rained continuously in Southern Germany with severe flooding. The Danube flows directly next to the campground. That is the reason why there are so many mosquitoes. Rika is bitten everywhere in a very short time by these damn things. I must have very unattractive blood for these mosquitoes I get out with just a few bites.

The paths wind through the forest, a joy to cycle that way. We encounter not a living soul.

Harburg (Schwaben) with its castle. ^

In the afternoon the sun came even out.

Dillenburg - Ulm

Day 9, Thursday, 30th June. 2016
Km. 65.22
Time 3:45
Height 210 meters

Schimmeltower in Lauingen.

At Grünsburg we find the Danube Cycle path

again. Fantastic to cycle through the forest.

The raindrops on my tent wake me up. I pack all the wet clothes in plastic bags. When we're ready to leave, it stops raining for the rest of the day, we are again very lucky. The first Village we come through is Lauingen. We find a bakery with a fanny name. "Himmelsbäck" (bakery from heaven)
I photograph a tower with the engraved year number 1478. I see on my tablet that it is a watchtower from the year 1457.
South of Gundelfingen we come on the B 16 but only for a small stretch. Before we cross the bridge to Günzburg on the Danube, I see a dirt road along the Danube; fortunately we have rediscovered the Danube cycle way. We cycle through forest and meadows in immediate proximity of the Danube.
In Weissingen near Leipheim we encounter a gas station for cyclist i.e. it is a restaurant with electricity connection for E-Bikes. The clouds are gone and we can enjoy lunch and coffee in the sun.
From here I turn on my GPS to find the Cathedral of Ulm without detours. When we stand in front of the Cathedral we are amazed by its size. It is a huge tower, with 161.53 meter. It is the highest church tower in the world. In the Second World War the church stood almost unscathed. The foundation stone was laid in 1377 but wasn't finished until 1890.
We cycle straight to the hostel. The tent is of course still wet in its plastic bag. It can dry overnight in the Cycling Room.

In the midst of the pasture landscape with many lakes we find this gas station in Weissingen

Town hall of Ulm. ^

<The Ulm Cathedral is about 160 meters, the highest church-spire in the world.

Ulm - Riedlingen

Day 10, Friday 1st July. 2016
Km. 71.84
Time 4:10
Height. 428 meters

Here the Danube forms a small lake.

This sign we follow.

A little piece of cycle path along B311

The hostel is entirely in the South-west of Ulm. That is our direction to the west. We cycle downhill to find the cycle path of the Danube. Erbach is the first city in which we want to buy something against the itching of mosquito bites in a pharmacy.
Then we continue via Griesingen and Rottenacher to Munderkingen. A very nice little town nestled between two sides of the Danube.
We are starving and it's time to have a lunch break.
We then enjoy a stroll through the town, take photos of Cafe Knebel (where we had lunch) and different magnificent buildings. The Dionysius church is worth a photo too.

City council Munderkingen.

Dionysius Curch.

Café Knebel in Munderkingen.

Then we continue via Nieder and Obermarchtal. Fortunately adjacent to the B 311, is a paved bike path.
Via Unlingen we get to the campground in Riedlingen which owner is the farmer Willi Weiss. It is a small but nice place with clean sanitary facilities. Recently the brook Schwarzach overflowed its banks. A large part of his farm was under water that is why the amount of mosquitoes has dramatically increased. Mr. Weiss gives us an anti-mosquito spray for free. Actually I sprayed myself and they made a big bow around me.
It is still early; we cycle up the creek into the city center of Riedlingen. The shops are still open and there are many ways to quench our thirst

Rechtenstein with castle.


Vis a vis the brewery, distillery and cider in Zweifaltendorf.

Riedlingen - Singen

Day 11, Saturday 2nd July. 2016
Km. 90.08
Time 5:07
Height. 627 meters

The sound of falling raindrops on my tent does not promise much good. The tent is packed wet, the cape and the spats are fetched from the very bottom of the luggage bag and will be used for the first time.
In Herbertingen we get a breakfast. In front of the restaurant are 6 foreigners from Pakistan to the Middle East under a big umbrella, and have there coffee break. They speak German well. One of them claims to have the Dutch nationality. His Dutch is, well, average. I can assess it because my native language is Dutch.
The weather in the morning isn't so bad. We have lunch in Pullendorf, even the sun shines for a while. When we arrive in Stockach, we flee into a restaurant because it's pouring. We take our time with coffee and cake and chat with a couple from this town. They make us suggestions where to stay here. But after a while the rain stops and we decide to continue for the next 20Km. to Singing. There should be a youth hostel.

Gate to Pfullendorf and an old half-timbered house.

Despite electric support we get pretty sweating.

My Youth Hostel Directory, (is already a bit older) states that the hostel is located on the Friedinger Street. That's good, we come via Friedingen. Unfortunately it is newly built and has not opened yet. Now I understand why they didn't answer my phone call.
We cycle into town, looking for another place and find it in the inn Kreuz. It is one of the oldest hotels in Singen, first mentioned anno 1310. Now it is also used as a cultural center with cinema, theater, cabaret and comedy, reading & presentation as a disco.
We have a big and clean room. Breakfast tomorrow is next door in the Holiday Inn. If we leave we have to throw the key in the mailbox
Down in the restaurant are many people watching the European championship. So we head downstairs for a beer and the Soccer game Germany - Italy.

Singen - Hohentengen am Hochrhein

Day 12, Sunday 3rd July. 2016
Km. 68.95
Time 3:36
Height. 419 meters

Our accomodation is in Hotel Kreuz.one of the oldest buildings in town, now a cultural center.

Festungsruine Hohentwiel. was residence of the Dukes of Swabia and Württemberg's state fortress.


To read, click Image.


From Singing to Schaffhausen is a bike path therefore no problem to lose our way or pesky cars.
We avoid the main road again and cycle along the foot of the fortress ruin Hohentwiel direction Gottmadingen. In Thayngen we cross the border to Switzerland. Between Thayngen and Herblingen it's up a hill then down to the Rhine in Schaffhausen. The first thing we see is the landmark of Schaffhausen, the Munot with the vineyards all around.
The waterfall in Neuhausen we have often seen, but not with such a high water level. It is imposing.

Waterfall at Neuhausen. ^

The landmark of Schaffhausen. "Munot">

Impressively at such high water level.

After Neuhausen we contrive to take a wrong road. We overlook the turn-off through Klettgau instead we cycle strait ahead till Beringen where we have the first coffee break. I look on my tablet, and see our mistake. I have the app "MEPS.ME" downloaded on my tablet. The nice thing is it works via satellite that means you don't need subscription or Wi Fi. The maps can be downloaded for free. A great thing, because with my tablet I have all the maps, don't need a map out of my luggage, to unfold and investigate any more. In addition, I find all attractions, shops, bakeries, cafés and more even with exact address.

But what are 5 Km. on such a long tour. We cycle through Klettgau and Eglisau over the Rhine with its beautiful bridge, stay on the left bank of the Rhine and come via Glattfelden, Rheinfelden to Kaiserstuhl.
Beautiful half-timbered houses and a tower make the village an attraction. Just next to the tower on a meadow are fish stalls. We arrive in time to get a portion of fish fillet with potatoes. Every year the music Society of Kaiserstuhl (CH) - Hohentengen (Germany) organize this fish food. The two music clubs have joined to reinforce because their number of members got less and less.
Following we cycle on to Hohentengen for camping. Summer is back i.e. Camping for tonight. It is a nice place for cyclists, next door for annual rent, with swimming pool and restaurant (80% Swiss). We cyclists are six who want to cycle all down the Rhine.

Bridge over the Rhine near Eglisau.

Tudor style house tower in Kaiserstuhl.

Campground restaurant in Hohentengen.

Hohentengen - Bremgarten

Day 13, Monday 4th July. 2016
Km. 45.15 = total number of kilometers: 859.61
Time. 2:40 = total time 50 hours and 13 minutes.
Height. 562 meters = total altitude: 6,443

The Belchenstrasse between Kaiserstuhl is blocked,

that is why we cycle over Rümikon and Wisikofen.

Today we head back home to Bremgarten. First we get breakfast in a bakery in Hohentengen. Although we are still in Germany, we already pay Swiss prices here. For example the cost of this breakfast is twice we had yesterday in the Holliday Inn in Singen (and that was superb).
We want to cycle over Belchen's hill to Siglistorf but in Kaiserstuhl I learn that the road is closed. So we cycle further down the Rhine to Rümikon where we turn left towards Wislikofen and Schneisingen. The road via Ehrendingen to the Historical Museum in Baden is all down.

Soon we come to the main road Dielsdorf - Döttingen and then we go down to Baden

Now over the old wooden bridge which span the river Limmat and we are in the center of Baden. Although we know the town from A to Z, there is no reason not to take a coffee break and take a photo from the city tower. It's a beautiful tower with its 3 turrets, solar and decimal time display.
We cycle the bike path to Bremgarten at least once a month, so we will be back home at lunchtime.

The right side of the Limmat with sight on Baden.^

We cycle over the old wooden bridge to the center for the last coffee break on this trip. The city tower >